Part of the Greater Antilles archipelago, Puerto Rico (or in Spanish, "Rich Port") keeps company with Cuba, The Dominican Republic, Haiti and Jamaica. Estado libre, or "free state" is how the U. S. Commonwealth of Puerto Rico is known. Locals still refer to the tropical island as Borinquen or "Land of the Valiant Lord."The historic district of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico sits inside the massive San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal forts, and is a puzzle of narrow and twisty cobblestone streets, all lined with colorful Spanish style edifices with balconies overlooking plazas, courtyards or the blue Atlantic. Established in 1521, it’s the second oldest city in all the U.S and its Spanish history blends with Taino (native islanders), African, French, and Dutch influences. Known as “The Nest of Pirates” in the days of Spanish trade, Puerto Rico still has its share of rum-lovers.
Cars cruise slowly by in dense traffic, better to people watch and appreciate the sights and sounds of the city. Tourists fresh off the cruise ships stick to the waterfront chain restaurants and 5-star hotels with recognizable names and casinos, while locals and the more savvy travelers mingle just a few blocks away in the multitude of cafes and music clubs found by strolling up and down the callejones (little alleys).
Puerto Rico, the island next to the Dominican Republic and not far from Cuba, brought Ricky Martin, Raul Julia and Benicio del Toro to the world.
Cristobal Colon, or Christopher Columbus, discovered the island on his second Caribbean journey in 1493 and named it after John the Baptist. That began the long and far-reaching Spanish push that would wipe out native populations all through the Americas.
Nowadays, the Puerto Ricans retain their Latin formal and polite interaction with a “bue’ dia’” (buenos dias or good day) as you approach, or “permiso” as you pass, and a “buen provecho” tossed out whenever there is food in sight. The Puerto Rican style is casual but put-together, with a seemingly natural sense of ease.
My first three days are filled with getting to know the lay of the land by walking up and down every narrow lane, atop fort walls and along the waterfront. Every step brings another inspiring view. Cats watch me from rose and pistachio-colored balconies, hibiscus flowers spill over sky blue walls, fort turrets protrude over gentle ocean waves, and fancy ruffled dresses peak out from shop windows. Since the sea breeze keeps me comfortable in the 86-degree weather, I forge ahead, covering a lot of ground from The Arsenal of the Port and miracle Chapel of the Doves, Fort Cristobal’s cool stone tunnels, the formidable old convent, and Casa Blanca (Juan Ponce de Leon family residence), to chic and mod cocktail lounges and Reggaeton music clubs in the SOFO (South of Fortaleza) blocks.
Back at my Posada San Francisco hostel, I enjoy the idyllic scene from the fifth floor balcony. The sweeping view takes in the outer fort walls of San Cristobal, the Ponce de Leon parkway that connects the old city to modern San Juan, the Port of Puerto Rico and its array of commercial ships and pleasure boats, the Plaza de Colonel and busy restaurants below, and rows of residences in every color of gelato.
In La Bombonera diner I get a glimpse of the old San Juan, as native, Mary Ann, tells me stories of several generations of community gatherings, music lessons, weddings and funerals held in this space. The traditional Mallorca Danishes are delectable. We talk of travels and family, and she confides her hopes of finding her family roots in Barcelona, Spain.
At the best lunch spot in the old city, St. Germaine, I have a ginger lemonade so stuffed with clumps of fresh ginger I have to use a spoon! The breezy corner café serves all fresh dishes, just-squeezed juices, and is all white-washed, summery and comfortable for hanging out. Long ago the western half of Puerto Rico was known as San German, named after King Ferdinand’s new wife, and the historic town of San German (established in 1573) still is found in the southwestern hills of the island.
My shrimp mofongo (Puerto Rican mound of fried plantain and yucca with creollo, or creole, sauce) was a hearty dinner at Café Berlin, and in the morning I frequent Caficultura, the elegant café just below my Posada San Francisco room, with its European style, perfect coffees and just a bit of Boho for the local youth. The outside tables look onto the Plaza de Colonel with its statue and fountain and shade trees. Feels much like New York’s Washington Square cafes, or even Seattle’s Pioneer Square sidewalk bars on a summer day.
One morning I bravely ventured out by car into the paralyzing traffic of San Juan to see the modern stretches of beach condos and towering hotels of the Condado district. Much like a Spanish-speaking Waikiki, Gucci-donned tourists and business people rushed from Luis Vuitton to Rolex storefronts. I did enjoy strolling through the ultra-posh La Concha, with its glassy lobby, breezy sushi bar and shell-shaped Perla restaurant with stupendous views of the waves. There are still plenty of funky beachy joints to grab a cold soda and sit at water’s edge in the shade of a palm. I made it back to my “secret” and very much coveted parking spot in Old San Juan without a dent!
