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Thursday, June 16, 2011

Grand Canyon - 7th Wonder of the World

The Grand Canyon Railway begins in Williams, a fun historic town with plenty of buzz, bars and hotels, where travelers congregate, ready to head into the National Park. As I approach the park I’m surprised and delighted to see the “Planes of Fame” vintage airplane museum. I make a quick left into the parking lot and have a ball taking in the collection. As I enter the park, it’s a perfect 91 degrees and although a bit busy, the park is not crowded in the least. I navigate through the Village and various lodges with ease. The development right up to the canyon’s rim is curious (McDonald’s, Wendy’s and IMAX are close by.) and the volume of asphalt is shocking, but makes each South Rim site extremely accessible to everyone. Shuttle busses continually circumnavigate the Village and Canyon Rim so no walking is necessary, even to get up close and personal with heart-stopping views, and gift shops peddling refrigerator magnets and shot glasses are at every turn.
First I stop at the Visitor’s Center for some geology, history and cultural background.
Then I walk a short bit to the Rim and watch Hopi dancers in traditional regalia. Next, I go to the Yavapai Geology Museum, with its spectacular glassed-in viewing lookout.



I marvel at the historic El Tovar Hotel as I sit with a cocktail just yards from the sheer drop of the canyon, and visit several sites of architectural significance by Mary Colter, designer of many of the native stone buildings and structural elements all over the South Rim. 



Harvey Girls uniforms and memorabilia
 in the Bright Angel Lodge's History Room










In the Bright Angel Lodge’s History Room, I delight in displays of Harvey Girls photos and uniforms. The famous Harvey Girls were the first to bring quality food service to the railroad and tourism hotspots. The Grand Canyon Railway terminus is in the center of the Village and lends a wonderfully romantic feel to the place, as do the horse stables and many original cabins.
 

























I spend the afternoon shuttling from western viewpoint to viewpoint on Hermit Road. I take in Mojave Point, The Abyss, Pima Point, Powell’s Point, Hermit’s Rest, each offering breath-taking vistas. As the light continually changes, photographers capture their own unique shots.
The park never closes and all areas are accessible 24 hours per day. Full moon walks, sunrise gatherings, afternoon seminars, trail and river excursions keep visitors busy at all hours. Campers have plenty of choices and do just as I do – make use of the lodges early in the morning for face-washing, teeth-brushing and coffee sipping. There is a place set for every strata of traveler.

My first night at the Canyon I fall asleep under a huge full moon above as a curious elk inspects the Astro. I wake refreshed and head out early to do a couple miles of the Bright Angel trail. A gorgeous, bright and still cool morning makes for a serene little hike. A team of horses and riders pass me on the narrow trail and all smile and wave. It’s a beautiful sight to see these strong animals confidently maneuver through the canyon. How many more pictures can I possibly take? It’s all so moving and tears escape as the team’s guide, Navajo and striking, takes the next switchback and is quickly out of sight.
My final few hours at the Canyon’s Rim are spent on the Desert View Road, stopping at periodic viewpoints and historic sites. Horace Silver and Dexter Gordon supply the touring soundtrack. At 9:00 AM it’s a comfortable 76 degrees and climbing rapidly. Not many are on the road yet and I enjoy pulling over frequently, often just a mere few feet from the abyss while still sitting at the driver’s seat. Here, any mal-planted step and you’re a goner. At Grandview Point, the ranger tells of the once famous mid-1800’s hotel that adventurous travelers would arrive at by stagecoach. Now there is barely a remnant of the structure. Here, the Colorado River is a fine green thread winding through the bottom of the vast canyon.

Finally, I arrive at the famous and stupendous Watchtower, the high round stone tower with several native painting-covered levels that offers amazing, vertigo-inducing views. Absolutely beautiful structure, location and vistas.




I point the Astro south out of the park toward the Hopi and Navajo lands, and look forward to exploring Arizona's ancient sun-drenched ruins.

more Grand Canyon images...



Hopi House of Native Art

Mary Colter's Studio Lookout









































Hermit's Rest lookout
El Tovar Lodge



California Condor glides above the canyon











Watchtower native art