MEXICO DE NUEVO! La Frontera, Guaymas and Los Mochis

Mexico again! Nobody seems to take much interest in me at the Nogales border so I roll through. Typical border town chaos surrounds the Astro – window-washers, trinket sellers, bootleg DVD vendors and insurance hawkers. The only Federales I see gather under the shade of roadside trees in their crisp navy uniforms, leaning against their shiny navy SUVs.  I keep on rolling, looking for the "Permito de Importación Temporal de Vehículos” and “Tarjetas Turistas” pull-off to make me and my van legal, but nothing. As I motor through the south part of town I get nervous, and pull over at a motel to ask. “Cinco milas mas” is the reply, meaning the customs office is way out of town. Nothing like all my online research and maps indicate. I’m still on track.

The gals line up for tourist visas

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Why "2010"?  I have no idea.

I get my pretty vehicle import sticker and off I head to Hermosillo and parts south. It’s a flat, non-descript terrain, and I put on a beautiful electronic version of Satie’s Gymnopedies No 1 to improve the mood.

The scenery changes dramatically as I take a right and head into San Carlos, just north of Guaymas. Here, raggedy peaks protect a cluster of blue bays and the dusty plains are left behind. Pleasure boats are moored at the many little marinas, and I find a place to get online and cool off. No foreign license plates here, and no English spoken. 

It's time to enjoy my favorite south of the border camarones en mojo de ajo (garlic shrimp), sip a Bohemia Oscura, and watch the pelicans swoop.

San Carlos on the Sea of Cortez



Guaymas inglesia

Guaymas is a medium-sized sea port and features the pre-requisite Mexican plaza with its white wrought iron gazebo and central church.



Guaymas waterfront

I welcome the familiar signs that I’m in Mexico: road side trucker shrines, Lady of Guadalupe murals, bumpy roads, the dreaded topes (road turtles that always pop up out of nowhere), copperware vendors, the smell of roasting chicken, gaggles of laughing kids and frisky doggies. The radio station blares a wonderful Mexican ranchero version of the Black-Eyed Peas’ “Tonight’s Gonna Be a Good Night.”  I’m all smiles.

Good Travels!



Don't drive sleepy!

Pedestrian crossing

Mexicans love ice cream

The Quinceanera, 15th birthday coming out party

Now it’s time to cross into Sinaloa state and Los Mochis, gateway to the Copper Canyon. I see the “Bienvenidos a Sinaloa!” sign, and immediately the land is greener and highway smoother.  Los Mochis is a hustle bustle town with many nice hotels, lots of traffic, big box and cell phone stores. I go straight to the Centro and park in front of the church and Best Western Hotel. It’s still screaming hot out, so I run into the hotel bar for a break. It’s full of business travelers doing the same. Not one foreigner. It’s not tourist season. I get a splendid air-conditioned room at the Corintios Hotel, watch a bit of dubbed Jennifer Aniston, and have a long, much-needed scrub after all the van-camping.

Next, I head to the Topolobampo ferry transportation office to buy my ticket and secure a cabin on the California Star ferry boat to La Paz. What seems to be a simple task takes several hours in Mexico. The sign says open at 7am, I arrive at the official sales terminal at 8am but they’re closed. A uniformed employee says “abierto a las nueve!”  OK, nine o’clock. I hang and read for a bit and at 9:30 a made-up, tight-skirt uniformed woman passes by and proceeds to a little unmarked door in the back. I follow out of curiosity, since I’ve been waiting at the official, signed front sales counter. I peek into the little back room and find it is indeed, the place to buy my ticket. I’m the only customer, should be quick and easy, but oh, the “vehicle measuring guy” will be here in a half hour. What!? They have to measure my van and each car that boards the ferry? Can’t they see it’s just a van, and easily under the over-length limit? OK, I wait some more. Eventually the smiley Senor Tape Measure shows and we get the job done together, chatting about this and that in Spanish, meticulously noting every detail of the van in question on his form. Hurrah! Oh but wait – now the sales women can’t find Washington State on the pull down menu. I look and only see Kansas, California, and Oklahoma. No other US states listed. This is curious. Finally the manager comes to save the day, does a little bit of computer magic and I’m good to go.

Next up: The Copper Canyon and California Star to the Baja Peninsula.





South to the Border

The warm low sun throws lengthy shadows across the golden mesas of central Arizona and I imagine old cowhands riding through the dusty chaparral. I travel south along the Rio Grande in 110 degree heat, only stopping when the tank needs filling. It’s a tough terrain, but I see a spot of blue on the map and head to Elephant Butte in Truth Or Consequences, Arizona. This hostile environment is torturous, and a cool beer break is in order. At the surprisingly self-contained (middle of nowhere hotel and cantina) Ivory Tusk Bar I meet Joel, a helicopter aeronautics specialist, who works on high-security military projects and does airshows all around the world. We drool over my maps and talk about all the best rivers and scenic roads in the Western US. I practice some Spanish with the friendly bartender and put off going out into the furnace-like heat. There is nothing but more desert to motor through, and I receive a wondrous show of fiery sunset behind silhouetted mountain crags as I head west again toward Tucson. The smell of chilies, Jimson and sage is thick in the night air.

The next morning as I pull toward Tucson, I turn into the Pima Air & Space Museum and its extensive grounds with several hangars full of war planes, military paraphernalia, early space equipment, and memorials to past heroes. Ken, the enthusiastic science geek docent, gives me the low down on his fave displays, and recites the history of every item donated to the museum. We marvel at the piece de resistance, the aerogel display (the amazing high-tech substance that is 99% air, but super strong and insulating and looks like a slice of blue smoke).  



India astronauts in space

Arriving in Tucson is an eerie experience, as no one is about, the streets devoid of human life. The heat keeps people in their air-conditioned homes. Front windows of businesses are tinted dark, so any activity goes unseen. I find the hipster blocks with a couple of cafes and a food coop, and sit with a lemonade to cool off. I’m here to regroup, do some laundry and check the needs of the Astro Verde, prior to crossing La Frontera into Mexico. In the evening, when the temperature has dropped to 100, I go to the historic Congress Hotel and take a look around.

Once elegant, it now has a bit of a rock and roll theme with its band stage and edgy bar. I stroll across the street to lovely Maynard’s in a restored building on the rail line. It’s now busy with inside clientele, no one sitting outside in the pretty over-heated courtyard. I have an heirloom tomato salad and chat with the 5-member band taking up the corner nook. Being young musician dudes, they play “name that tune” as 70s era music plays on the sound system. They argue Beatles vs. Spinners, and all agree that Motown was the bomb.



Maynard's elegant bar and restaurant





As I travel south to the border and stop into Nogales, AZ, I hear only Spanish. Mileage signs are in kilometers and McDonalds signs read “Me Encanta!” (their way of saying “I’m Lovin’ It!”)

Next up: Crossing La Frontera

In Hot Water at Ojo Caliente

Oh wow, I've found heaven on Earth. In spite of the 95 degree heat, I look forward to submerging myself in the hot pools of Ojo Caliente outside of Taos, New Mexico and soak my cares away. This soothing spot has a long curative history, and its lithium, iron, soda and arsenic waters bring back the faithful year after year.

I pull in to the pretty grounds, past the rental cottages and Artesian Restaurant, and park near the reception lobby. The graceful Southwest architecture blends in naturally with the setting of limestone cliffs and desert flora.

First I take a seat at the rustic Artesian Bar and order a fresh green salad with a fine white wine. The service and atmosphere are perfect. I enjoy conversation with several lunchers, some post-mineral springs dazed, and some still anxious to partake.

Next, I move to the pool area, tip-toeing over the hot hot tiles, and immerse myself in the sweltering iron pool. As I adjust to the heat, I watch other spa-goers relax with books, or chat pool-side.

Near the mud-bath I meet Therese and Ali, Denver Colorado vacationers. They warmly engage me in conversation, and soon we're comparing notes on everything under the sun. We move our party to their quaint cottage and Therese makes yummy guacamole, while Ali helps me practice my Spanish. Soon it's time to return to Taos, so we recruit a passer-by to take our photo, and promise to keep in touch.

The springs of Ojo Caliente are on my list of favorite places.

EARTHSHIPS

Just outside of Taos, New Mexico and the Rio Grande Gorge is the EARTHSHIP Biotecture epicenter. As I approach the community I see mounds of earth with various decorative and industrial projections protruding skyward. These passive solar structures are designed to maintain a comfortable interior temperature year round, use only solar power and self-contained sewage systems. Some look wonderfully whimsical, some sophisticated and elegant, some just down right industrial, with tire walls and recycled bottles used for colorful windows. All along the hillsides more Earthship houses can be seen, like cozy animals nesting.

The Earthship phenomenon has been around a long time, and now this sustainable, passive solar method is being re-birthed around the globe.

I go to the Visitors Center, where the friendly guides show me around the greenhouse garden, rooftop solar array, power and waste water systems, and then show a video illustrating various designs of Earthships all over the world. I leave feeling invigorated by the creative, intelligent and hopeful Earthship community.