South to the Border

The warm low sun throws lengthy shadows across the golden mesas of central Arizona and I imagine old cowhands riding through the dusty chaparral. I travel south along the Rio Grande in 110 degree heat, only stopping when the tank needs filling. It’s a tough terrain, but I see a spot of blue on the map and head to Elephant Butte in Truth Or Consequences, Arizona. This hostile environment is torturous, and a cool beer break is in order. At the surprisingly self-contained (middle of nowhere hotel and cantina) Ivory Tusk Bar I meet Joel, a helicopter aeronautics specialist, who works on high-security military projects and does airshows all around the world. We drool over my maps and talk about all the best rivers and scenic roads in the Western US. I practice some Spanish with the friendly bartender and put off going out into the furnace-like heat. There is nothing but more desert to motor through, and I receive a wondrous show of fiery sunset behind silhouetted mountain crags as I head west again toward Tucson. The smell of chilies, Jimson and sage is thick in the night air.

The next morning as I pull toward Tucson, I turn into the Pima Air & Space Museum and its extensive grounds with several hangars full of war planes, military paraphernalia, early space equipment, and memorials to past heroes. Ken, the enthusiastic science geek docent, gives me the low down on his fave displays, and recites the history of every item donated to the museum. We marvel at the piece de resistance, the aerogel display (the amazing high-tech substance that is 99% air, but super strong and insulating and looks like a slice of blue smoke).  



India astronauts in space

Arriving in Tucson is an eerie experience, as no one is about, the streets devoid of human life. The heat keeps people in their air-conditioned homes. Front windows of businesses are tinted dark, so any activity goes unseen. I find the hipster blocks with a couple of cafes and a food coop, and sit with a lemonade to cool off. I’m here to regroup, do some laundry and check the needs of the Astro Verde, prior to crossing La Frontera into Mexico. In the evening, when the temperature has dropped to 100, I go to the historic Congress Hotel and take a look around.

Once elegant, it now has a bit of a rock and roll theme with its band stage and edgy bar. I stroll across the street to lovely Maynard’s in a restored building on the rail line. It’s now busy with inside clientele, no one sitting outside in the pretty over-heated courtyard. I have an heirloom tomato salad and chat with the 5-member band taking up the corner nook. Being young musician dudes, they play “name that tune” as 70s era music plays on the sound system. They argue Beatles vs. Spinners, and all agree that Motown was the bomb.



Maynard's elegant bar and restaurant





As I travel south to the border and stop into Nogales, AZ, I hear only Spanish. Mileage signs are in kilometers and McDonalds signs read “Me Encanta!” (their way of saying “I’m Lovin’ It!”)

Next up: Crossing La Frontera