From Albuquerque, I drive 58 miles north on Highway 25 to Sante Fe, New Mexico, between the Jemez and Sangre de Cristo Mountains. As I approach the southern end of town, I begin to see pleasant greens and soft hills, a nice change from the brown I’ve left behind. Sante Fe blends sophistication with a bit of earthiness, in a palette of tan, mocha, taupe and sand.
 |
| New Mexico, Land of Enchantment |
The van is contentedly parked in front of the pretty St. Francis Hotel in the historic center, so I go directly to the veranda, sip a martini and people watch as the sun gets low and the temperature drops. Even on a Tuesday night, the center plaza, lined with tourist boutiques and art galleries, is bustling with window-shopping families stopping in ice cream shops. I tuck myself away for the night and awake to a cool morning. 
I have to search a bit for the local’s coffee house but eventually find the artfully muraled Aztec Café. Out front are parked a Ducati motorcycle and one blinged-up girl’s bicycle. Just my style, and the chipotle egg breakfast sandwich hits the spot.
Sante Fe town center is the tourist zone with chock-a-block galleries, ice cream, and Southwest fashion shops. Museums and government offices are found on pretty shaded surrounding streets. I drive the picturesque narrow and curvy Artist’s Road lined with little adobe houses and galleries. Southwest style homes look down on town from sage-covered hills above.
I search and search for the Sante Fe River as indicated on the tourist map, then realize I’ve been following the dry, shallow 15 foot-across ditch all through town! River? It must trickle in the wet months.
 |
| Sante Fe Railyard |
I breakfast at the Anasazi Hotel and stroll past the wine cellar. ![]()
![]()
 |
| The Anasazi Hotel in Sante Fe Centro. (The name Anasazi is a veiled insult given by the Navajos to their "ancestral enemies" and its use is out of favor in modern pueblos.) |
Bandelier National Monument is on my must see list, so I head out northwest of town to hike a bit and view ruins. The ranger station warns of bears and the poisonous Datura plant. Frijoles Canyon is a beautiful environment to explore, with Cottonwood, Gamble Oak and Pinon Pine at elevations above 6500 feet. 
Ceremony kivas (round rock-lined pits) are found on the floor of the canyon, as well as an extensive complex of high-density stone-walled apartments. I progress high up the pathway to fascinating cliff dwellings, each cave house with beautifully painted walls and storage niches. The natural stone formations are stunning, and afford long views across the canyon. I photograph Big Kiva, Talus House and Long House communities.
As I stroll down again along shaded trails, Flickers and Black-headed Grosbeaks sing from the canopy above. Then I head back to the Astro van and say hello to an Abert “Tassel-eared” squirrel who poses patiently for the camera. Finally, I enjoy my last Oreo cookie and return to town.
