North I travel on Highway 68, or “The Low Road” as the locals call it, along the Rio Grande to Taos, New Mexico. The river is a slow, brown waterway that provides crucial irrigation and recreation to this dry land. The road narrows and curves through a few small vineyards and farms. I pull over at the familiar feeling tiny one-room Blue Heron Brewery in Rinconada, just a few miles south of Taos. I get a funny twinge, like I’ve been here before, and a strong notion that I’m going to like where I’m headed. I enjoy my Oro de Rio Grande pilsner and listen in on river rafting stories. As I head into Taos, I do a quick pull-over and put my toes in the khaki-chocolate colored water before I finish my day’s journey.
As I near town, I listen for the famous “Taos Hum.” Perhaps I detect a faint electromagnetic pulse emanating from the mountains, or is it the pilsner kicking in?
I pull northward along the Paseo del Pueblo main drag and easily park the van near the entrance to Kit Carson Park, where the band is ready to begin at the Solar Festival. It’s hot and I’m bushed, so I find my way to the historic Taos Inn, full of character and cozy sitting rooms. Doc Martin arrived here in 1890, and after his death in 1935 his wife transformed his former office block into the Hotel Martin, now the Taos Inn. The Adobe Bar is the Living Room of all of Taos. I van camp alongside other travelers in the central free-park zone, all windows wide open in hopes of a cross-breeze. I settle in for a laptop viewing of “Fried Green Tomatoes” as I hear the last band winding down in the park.
In the morning I head to Michael’s western café for a bacon waffle, then see some local attractions. The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, where various craft sellers show their wares at the pullout, leads to the amazing “Earthship Road.” Here, the word “Biotecture” was coined. [much more on Earthship headquarters in a separate post.]
Next, I find my friend, Kirk’s place by the distinctive red caboose landmark. His Nu-Essence incense shop smells like an explosion of exotic elixirs. I recognize his stable of vintage motorcycles, VWs and the old Mercedes from old days in Seattle. We share a Guinness to cool off.
![]()
More touring is in order and I drive along curvy Cottonwood-lined country roads, past horse ranches, into the tiny enclave of Arroyo Seco, with its Abominable Snowmansion hostel, mercantile and artsy shops.
As I approach the Taos Pueblo historic site, I recognize the drill. Entry into tribal lands starts with a dazzling casino before the historic pueblo site access. Each pueblo requires a $10-12 entry fee, plus $7 photography fee. That adds up. Generally the pueblos are re-created history parks for the kids. I forgo this one. I return to the Taos Plaza, with its easy parking and free community wifi, and sit at the delightful Bent Street Café. The setting is a comfortably shaded garden courtyard and the food is superb. Music of Nora Jones, John Mayer, Anita Baker and Corrine Bailey-Ray add to the relaxing atmosphere.
I get my second wind as I’m reminded of the daily routine in the hot South by watching freshly showered, dressed up couples coming out just before dusk for some music and dancing on the plaza.
Dancers twirl as I enjoy my raspberry sorbet, sitting beside locals in the shade of oaks. The air starts to cool, and more families and pups come out to mingle. I hear “…kicks on Route 66… Gallup New Mexico… Barstow to San Bernardino…” Been there! Next the band plays “searching for a heart of gold, and I’m gettin’ old…” and I start to feel sentimental.
In the evening, the Astro fits right in alongside Kirk’s parked vans.
Kirk cooks up a yummy dinner and we take in a movie. Lively chickens wake me up in the morning and again I’m off to explore!
I head toward the Carson National Forest and Ojo Caliente Hot Springs Resort and enjoy the various mineral pools, wine bar and guests. (more on Ojo Caliente in a separate post.)
 |
| Kirk, Ron and Uma |
My last night in Taos I meet Kirk and friends at the Taos Inn, where the band is juiced up and the locals dance the hot night away.
 |
| Historic Taos Inn |
Lots of Taos photos-
 |
| Kit Carson lived in Taos, New Mexico |
 |
| Solar-powered radio station KTAO |
 |
| Blue Heron Brewery in Rinconada, just south of Taos |
